New Orleans , Louisiana
Tel: 504 899 8221
Concierge.com's insider take:
If you doubt the concept of "elegant excess," book a long weekday lunch at Commander's, in the relaxed Garden District. The legendary flagship of the Brennan's restaurant dynasty hosts the local ladies who lunch as they celebrate their birthdays with a flood of 25-cent martinis (one of the best hidden lunch specials in town). The ambience of the new main dining room has shifted from restrained and clubby to playfully extravagant, with life-size feathered songbird dolls peeping out from the avian-themed wallpaper. The second-story Garden Room looks out onto the iconic oak-shaded courtyard. In both rooms, the efficient, brigade-style service never disappoints. Chef Tory McPhail, working the kitchen that launched Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse, artfully blends varied local influences in dishes like pan-seared Gulf fish with Louisiana citrus; crawfish and grits perfumed with cognac; and an earthy seared duck breast with Cajun dirty rice and roasted tomatoes. Eternal Commander's classics such as rich seafood gumbo, sherry-spiked turtle soup, and ethereal bread pudding soufflé provide a comforting sense of continuity.
Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 am to 2 pm and 6:30 to 10 pm, Saturdays 11:30 am to 1 pm and 6:30 to 10 pm, and Sundays 10:30 am to 1:30 pm and 6:30 to 10 pm.