New York City

Concierge.com's insider take:

When hôtelier terrible Ian Schrager took over the divey but divinely located Gramercy Park Hotel, on 21st Street and Lexington Avenue, he vowed to create a new kind of urban hotel. It's a somewhat vague goal—making it hard to gauge its success—but the place undeniably explodes with personality. Artist Julian Schnabel oversaw the decor, and his more-is-more design ethos is a 180-degree turn from the ironic postmodernism of Philippe Starck, Schrager's former collaborator. Unlike Starck's clever Lucite Louis Ghost chairs and all-white rooms, Schnabel's choices are heavy, even brooding, and decidedly Old World: studded Spanish hope chests; tapestry-covered, tasseled chairs; red velvet drapes; quilted velvet headboards. The lobby is dominated by black and white Moroccan tiles in a checkerboard pattern, an impressive coffered ceiling, and a massive crystal chandelier. The overall look sounds severe, but it's leavened by lighter touches (Jean Prouvé–inspired lamps, archival photographs) and by a fantastic art collection, including huge pieces by Twombly, Warhol, Basquiat, Hirst, and Schnabel himself. The 185 rooms are painted in one of three palettes—jade green, powder blue, or pale red—and have overstuffed furniture, windows that open partway, and generally good views. Spring for a larger one, such as the 950-square-foot Gramercy suites: The smaller "superior" rooms are just large enough to pace in and can be overwhelmed by all that red velvet. Service, traditionally an issue at Schrager hotels, is efficient to only occasionally officious. So, does it all warrant the minimum $500-something-a-night tariff? That partly depends on if you're willing to pay to be with the in crowd—one of the things that hasn't changed about a Schrager joint. The door policy at the Rose and Jade bars is heavily enforced, though not surly, and even hotel guests need a reservation after 9 pm. The upsides are that the spaces are never overflowing, and the Rose Bar is inviting with its fireplace and a red-felt pool table (free). The in-house restaurant is being renovated, but a new menu is available in the Private Roof Club.