Paris

Concierge.com's insider take:

No matter how good the food, a meal at a grand hotel restaurant used to be a yawn or, worse, a parody of obsequiousness. It's places like Le Cinq at the Four Seasons Hotel George V that are redefining Parisian luxe as an epicurean dream nestled in palatial walls. The maître d' addresses you by name, and a discreet footstool appears from nowhere for your purse, newspaper, or hat. The decor befits a palace hotel, from the moldings and frescoed cupola to the gray-and-gold drapes and plush carpet. Chef Philippe Legendre's sophisticated cooking is exceptional in freshness, flavor, and inventiveness without being wild or fussy. Artichoke pie is perfumed with Périgord truffles. Line-caught turbot with watermelon is basted in an aromatic broth of spices and lime. Pantelleria capers enliven the rack of milk-fed veal. For dessert, don't miss the ethereal gratin of strawberries with mascarpone sorbet. At noon expect to see a business crowd peppered with traveling gourmets and blueblood regulars, and a global mix of foodies at dinnertime. Reserve far in advance.