Paris

Concierge.com's insider take:

Trendy spots pop up quickly (and disappear just as fast) in the up-and-coming Canal Saint Martin neighborhood, but this diminutive neo-bistro—with its Belle Époque bar, banquettes, wooden tables, and spiral staircase—seems set to stay. As its name (which loosely translates to "from my heart") implies, the restaurant serves way more than standard bistro fare—and at giveaway prices, too. Young chef Benoit Mathurin began cooking at the tender age of 15, and learned the ropes at the marquee restaurants Lasserre (17 Ave. Franklin Roosevelt; 33-1-43-59-02-13; www.restaurant-lasserre.com) and Tante Louise (41 Rue Boissy d'Anglas; 33-1-42-65-06-85; www.bernard-loiseau.com). On Et Dans Mon Coeur's oft-changing menu, he slips market-based dishes, such as crisp-fried shrimp ravioli sprinkled with sesame seeds over pear sauce or thick-cut swordfish topped with sautéed sweet bell peppers, among tried-and-true favorites like duck confit and charcuterie with cornichons. (Look at the chalkboard for daily specials.) For dessert, the chef might offer roasted figs drizzled with honey and dotted with Szechuan pepper or soft-centered chocolate moelleux cupcakes. Since opening in July 2006, this hot spot has been pretty much booked solid by journalists, artists, and business types for lunch and by starry-eyed couples for dinner, so reserve a few days ahead.

Closed Sundays.