Peru

LAY OF THE LAND

Peru is roughly divided into three geographic regions: La costa, the narrow and mostly arid western plain (home to Lima, the Islas Ballestas, and Nazca); la sierra, the country's Andean spine (home to Lake Titicaca, Huascaran, and Salcantay); and la selva, the Amazonian swath to the east (home to Tambopata, Manu, and Iquitos). While the best-known river is the Amazon, you're likely to meet the Urubamba River first, as almost any Peruvian sojourn involves a spin through the Inca heartland and consequently the Urubamba Valley (just below Machu Picchu). Also part of the greater Machu Picchu neighborhood is Cuzco, where you'll inevitably spend a few nights, as will large numbers of your fellow Americans. Consider escaping to the north of Peru, with its formidable pre-Incan ruins and beautiful mountains, valleys, and lakes.

WHEN TO GO

The coast and the Andean highlands have two distinct weather zones. On the coast, the climate is hottest between December and March. The rest of the year is cooler and frequently misty. In the highlands, December to March is the rainy season, while April to December is mostly dry and sunny. In summary, there is no ideal month to see the whole country, but to reduce the risk of seeing Machu Picchu in the rain, go between May and September.

HOW TO GET THERE

Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima is about six miles from downtown (www.lap.com.pe/ingles). The best way to travel between the two is by cab or shuttle. Cab fare to downtown should cost about $15 (arrange the price when you get in the car). Urbanito Shuttle Bus Transfer charges $6 to $10 (www.urbanito.com.pe).

GETTING AROUND

Because of its size and challenging terrain, Peru is a difficult country to get around. The quickest way to do so is by plane, and flying between major towns is simple and reasonably inexpensive. Buses are cheaper and may be the only option for some destinations. Peru has a confusing network of competing bus companies. To find out which one to take, your best option is to approach the local tourist office and ask them to direct you. Renting a car is expensive and involves driving long distances over sometimes problematic roads.

TRAVEL TIPS

No immunizations are officially required, but the farther off the beaten track you travel, the more precautions you should take. For example, if you are planning a trip to the Amazon, you will need a vaccination against yellow fever, even though this is not necessary for visitors to the coast or highlands. Jungle travelers should also take antimalarial drugs for at least a week before arrival in the jungle, during the stay there, and for at least four weeks afterward. The cautious traveler will also update vaccines for hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, and measles.

TOURIST INFO

www.peru.info

Lima
Main tourist office
610 Jorge Basadre, San Isidro
Tel: 51 1 421 1627
Jorge Chávez International Airport
Tel: 51 1 574 8000

Cuzco
103 Avenue Sol
Tel: 51 84 25 2974

Machu Picchu
Edificio del Instituto Nacional de Cultura
Avenue Pachacútec, cuadra 1 s/n, oficina
Tel: 51 84 211 104