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Malabar, Lima

101 Calle Camino Real
Tel: 511 440 5200's insider take:

Having studied at the Culinary Institute of America and trained at a succession of Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, Lima native Pedro Miguel Schiaffino eventually returned to his hometown and opened Malabar, Peru's first outlet for haute Amazonian cuisine. Though many of the jungle's creatures, fruits, and vegetables take the form of street food in their native habitat, here—amid brightly colored furniture and a riot of artwork—they become soufflés (heart of palm), purées (yuca), and vinaigrettes (the applelike cocona). There are international offerings as well, but if you try nothing else from the Amazon, sample the seeds that serve as an amuse-bouche.—Abbie Kozolchyk

Open Mondays through Saturdays 12:30 to 4 pm and 7:30 to 11 pm.

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