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Osteria, Philadelphia

640 N. Broad Street
Philadelphia , Pennsylvania
19130
Tel: 215 763 0920
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Concierge.com's insider take:

Since opening Vetri in 1998 (1312 Spruce St.; 215-732-3478; www.vetriristorante.com), chef Marc Vetri's kitchen has been supplying Philadelphia with brilliant Italian cuisine as well as talented protégés, like Mark Solomonov, who have gone on to put their own tasty stamp on the city's culinary landscape. At last, Vetri himself has branched out, trading the intimacy of his first venture for a larger, more casual, space in a converted garment factory, and a tightly edited menu for one with more breadth. Befitting the chef's reputation, expectations (and prices) are high, but Vetri delivers. He creatively laces crispy wood-fired pizza crust with sweet figs, punchy gorgonzola, and salty wisps of speck, and tucks preternaturally sweet eggplant into ravioli, then sauces the delicate pockets simply—spectacularly—with anchovies melted in olive oil. The only unexpected element is the North Broad neighborhood, which is far enough from up-and-coming that you can still park on the street.

Open Mondays through Wednesdays and Saturdays 5 to 11 pm; Thursdays and Fridays 11:30 am to 2 pm and 5 to 11 pm; Sundays 5 to 10 pm.

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