see + do
Concierge.com's insider take:
For fans of clean lines and jazzy typefaces, Porto is an Art Deco delight. The style caught on here in a big way from the 1920s onwards, and the city is full of Deco touches—on storefronts, private houses, garages, factories, and movie theaters. Most of these buildings are unrestored, however, and many architectural jewels have sunk into ugly disrepair. Cunhas is a department store ("Novelties, We Sell Cheaper" is its motto) with a huge peacock on its lovely 1930s front (14 Praça Gomes Teixeira; 351-222-001-516; open 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon–Fri, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Sat). The private garden of the Casa de Serralves, a classic example of 1930s bourgeois architecture, is a rare example of an Art Deco landscape. The 1940s Coliseu, a theater, is at least well restored (137 Rua Passos Manuel; 351-223-394-940; www.coliseudoporto.pt), but the garage opposite, which has been converted into a gallery, restaurant, and the bohemian nightclub Maus Hábitos, is in a sad state (178 Rua Passos Manuel; 351-222-087-268; www.maushabitos.com; open 10 p.m.–2 a.m. Wed, Thurs, Sun, 10 p.m.–4 a.m. Fri–Sat). Were this Miami, you'd find it listed in tourist brochures and/or converted into a boutique hotel.
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