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Shopping, Lisbon

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Portugal's insider take:

The best street for concentrated, only-in-Lisbon shopping is the Rua Garret, which fittingly links the city's two prime style centers: the still raffish, boho Bairro Alto and the more polished, boutique-happy Chiado. Start at the Vista Alegre flagship shop, which showcases a line of Portuguese ceramics established in 1824. Especially tempting: the set of fey figurines symbolizing Portugal's provinces, including a peasant girl balancing a basket of pastel-colored flowers on her head (20–23 Largo do Chiado; 351-21-346-1401; Continue east down Rua Garret to the Armazens Do Chiado, which is as chic as a mall gets and a prime local hangout (2 Rua do Carmo; 351-21-321-0600; in Portuguese only). The area's most sublime surprise, though, sitting just across the street from the mall entrance, is the doll-sized Luvaria Ulisses, where the proprietor still traces your hand on paper and makes perfectly fitted butter-leather gloves in colors like saffron, pistachio, and plum (87-A Rua do Carmo; 351-21-342-0295; If you're in search of a more substantial souvenir, head to Casa dos Tapetes de Arraiolos, which specializes in the hand-embroidered Portuguese wool rugs that originated as a folkish take on oriental carpets; the flower-strewn versions can look like Whitman sampler boxes, but the more geometric patterned renditions are guilelessly elegant (116 E Rua da Imprensa Nacional; 351-21-396-3354;

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Luvaria Ulisses

OMG, I got a pair of gloves from that tiny shop, just the fitting ritual alone is wortth , rest your elbow on the pillow and watch as the inject each glove finger... more

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