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Le Bistrot d'Eygalières, Eygalières

Rue de la République
France 13810
Tel: 33 4 90 90 60 34
view web site ›'s insider take:

This is the home of Provence's most relaxed culinary thrills. Rare is the two-Michelin-starred restaurant that is as open and friendly as Wout and Suzy Bru's bistrot in the tiny hill town of Eygalières. Sitting on the town's main commercial street, it has none of the entry-room fuss associated with fancy French dining. Typical Provençal decor is taken upscale with glazed-tile floors and plastered ceiling posts in the two warm dining rooms, which seem urbane and rustic at the same time. This theme carries over to the menu: From the house cocktail of Champagne and Campari onward, everything is an elegant take on regional classics. Highlights include a "canneloni" of rare tuna with foie gras and pine nuts, sole with lightly fried pigs' foot, a symphonic king crab appetizer that's served with poached oysters and truffled mashed potatoes, and a croustillant, literally a crunch of roast suckling pig that combines textures like few meat dishes can. Every ingredient sings in simple, subtle, and rewarding combinations. The wine list covers the world of high-priced Bordeaux and Burgundies, but is also encyclopedic with the local Côteaux-de-Provence, Bandol, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. What ties it all together is the tremendously friendly service: The staff is young, enthusiastic, and knowledgeable to a fault.

Call ahead for hours.

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