Provence's culinary soul is torn between purists and pioneers. The newest wave of innovation has bridged a gap between the two by revitalizing dormant traditions and concentrating on ingredients harvested from the countryside. The Italian-influenced cuisine of eastern Provence and the southern coast—a savory repertoire of salade Niçoise, rosemary-infused lamb, olive oil, and fresh fish—has little of the heavy sauces and butter that characterize classic French cooking. Toward the west and farther inland, the food gets richer, but no less delectable, with an emphasis on fresh truffles, farm pork, lamb, and many a roasted goose. Visitors looking for a picture-book Provençal experience are in luck, for there are hundreds, if not thousands, of decent roadside restaurants done up with the iconic floral prints, tile floors, and stone walls. No matter what, you can generally leave your formal clothes at home for all but the fanciest three-star restaurants. That said, calling ahead is essential for the restaurants listed below: Opening days and hours are maddeningly unpredictable.