Puerto Rico

The heart of San Juan is the colonial-era neighborhood called Old San Juan, which sits on an island that separates the Atlantic Ocean from San Juan Bay. Pastel-colored houses sit along cobblestone streets, making this a great place to get lost. Moving east from Puerta de Tierra, you cross a bridge to reach Condado. This neighborhood, long the destination of a fashion-conscious crowd, is known for its high-end boutiques that are strung along Avenida Ashford. It's also reputed to have a great beach, but in truth there are much better ones nearby. In the mostly residential Ocean Park, which sits to the east of Condado, the sandy shore is just as lovely, and it isn't overrun by teenagers playing loud music or overshadowed by high-rise hotels. To the east of Ocean Park, however, the hotels sprout up again in Isla Verde.

San Juan sits along the island's northern coast. The eye-popping rain forest of El Yunque is roughly 25 miles to the east. About 10 miles beyond that is the coastal city of Fajardo, where you'll find the splendid nature preserve of the Reserva Natural Las Cabezas de San Juan. On the island's southern coast is the city of Ponce, the so-called "Pearl of the South." This is a destination for those headed to the Hacienda Buena Vista, a coffee plantation dating from 1838. Puerto Rico's northern and western coasts have a string of seldom-explored beaches. One of them, Rincón, is a surfer's paradise. It is also home to one of the Caribbean's best lodgings, the Horned Dorset Primavera.

WHEN TO GO

As part of the United States and a major pit stop on the Caribbean cruise line circuit, Puerto Rico suffers from its sheer accessibility. Which means that travelers considering a visit should weigh their lust for perfect weather with their need to avoid jam-packed beaches and hotels. For those seeking solace, Puerto Rico's low season runs from May to November, when the weather is warmest, wettest, and potentially hurricane-fraught. Conversely, the period between December and April is the high season, when the island is crowded with Americans escaping the punishing winters on the east coast. Year-round, however, the island enjoys average temperatures of 82° F and strong, cooling winds.

HOW TO GET THERE

Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport is one of the Caribbean's largest. It's directly linked to most major cities in the mainland United States via large airlines like American and Continental, as well as discount carriers such as JetBlue. The airport also links Puerto Rico to most other islands through the regional carrier American Eagle. San Juan is a major port of call on Caribbean cruise itineraries.

GETTING AROUND

Taxis are the best bet for travel within San Juan—particularly for those with limited knowledge of Spanish. They are, however, quite expensive, even when compared to New York City prices. Most journeys are covered by flat rates; getting to the airport will cost you $10 from Isla Verde, $14 from Condado, and $19 from Old San Juan. Car rental is fairly simple—although driving around San Juan and the nearby countryside can be hectic. Most of the major hotels have the usual rent-a-car outlets on-site, and concierges may arrange for cars to be delivered to the hotel. Major car rental agencies also have branches in San Juan, and independent companies operate out of Condado and the airport. These smaller outfits offer shuttle service from the airport to major hotels and charge competitive prices; one of the best is Charlie Car Rental, which has a location at the airport (787-728-2418; www.charliecars.com).

TOURIST INFO

The Puerto Rico Tourism Company
Main Office
La Princesa Building
2 Paseo La Princesa
Old San Juan
Tel: 787 721 2400

La Casita (tourist information kiosk)
Plaza de La Dársena, in front of Pier 1
Old San Juan
Tel: 787 722 1709

View Puerto Rico Factsheet