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La Puritate, Gallipoli

18 Via Sant'Elia
Tel: 39 083 326 4205's insider take:

Next to the Baroque church of the same name in Gallipoli's centro storico stands this evergreen seafood restaurant. Attentive, old-fashioned waiters bustle about in the main, marine-themed dining room, serving up an array of hot and cold antipasti (Puritate's real calling card) that might include spicy mussels, thinly sliced octopus marinaded in olive oil and lemon, palamita (Atlantic bonito), raw shrimp, hake in a lemon and yogurt sauce—all simple dishes based on the freshest fish and seafood cooked (or not) with the minimum of fuss to bring out the flavor. After the antipasto parade, most regulars might stretch to a pasta dish, such as linguine alla Purtitate—with shrimp, zucchini, and cherry tomatoes—and then wrap with a palate-cleansing lemon sorbet. Just when you thought it was all over, coffee arrives with complimentary almond sweets. Book ahead at peak times (Friday and Saturday evening, Sunday lunch).

Open Thursdays through Tuesdays.

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