Went to Matera one day of our Italy trip. Had a personal tour guide in our cousin's friend, who grew up in Matera. We saw the "museum" side of the town, with caves set up as they were when they were inhabited, along with a church and gift shops. We saw how they were dug deep into the side of the hill, with the family living in the outer layers and the animals down in the deeper layers, and then the wine stored in the deepest, darkest, coldes layers! Sometimes neighbors dug into each others' spaces! Hard to believe people actually lived here until the 1950s!
We also saw the restaurant our cousin's friend's family now runs, on the other, inhabited side of the town. Unfortunately, we were there before it opened for the night, but we got to see how it was inside. There were quite a few places to eat and stay, and we got a big kick out of seeing laundry lines and satellite dishes outside of what, to us, could hardly be considered homes! But, they are! Really, really neat place, we'll never forget it.