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Surya Mahal, Jaipur

Oberoi Rajvilas
Goner Road
Tel: 91 141 268 0101's insider take:

Five miles outside of Jaipur, at the Oberoi Rajvilas, you might find yourself sitting in a courtyard under the stars. Candles are flickering and women are performing traditional Rajasthani folk dances to a background of sitar and drums. What difference does it make how the food is? The food, in fact, is excellent. Nibble on a mouthful of (deep breath) bharwan gucci aur subz biryani—morsels of spiced vegetables and basmati rice. Or order typical Rajasthani vegetarian platters of kebab and kofta, which use spinach in a manner that even a preschooler would like. It's all so delicious you might even vow to go meatless—until a sizzling platter is set down on the next table over, and you remember that the chef is Australian and ought to know something about lamb.

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