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restaurants
15 Via Ulisse Aldrovandi
Rome
00197
Tel: 39 06 321 6126
Concierge.com's insider take:
The Roman offspring of Don Alfonso 1890, one of southern Italy's top restaurants, baby is cradled on the poolside terrace of the Aldrovandi Palace Hotel, on the northern edge of the Borghese Gardens. But it's worth the taxi ride from the center to experience the refined but unpretentious cuisine of Alfonso Iaccarino and his son Ernesto, who oversee the menu and kitchen staff from their Amalfi Coast base. Most recipes, like sartù di riso (rice loaf) on a bed of tomato ragù, or the ricotta and nettle "nudi" (gnocchi) in gurnard sauce come straight from the mother ship, while one or two others (like the roast chicken served with red pepper ice cream) nod at the Roman tradition. In cooler weather, one dines inside in a suite of elegant, contemporary-minimalist rooms that are in stark contrast with the rather fusty antique decor of the hotel upstairs. Allow around $145 a head with a modest bottle of wine, and add another $55 if you want to combine lunch here with a day pass for the Aldrovandi pool.
Open Tuesdays through Sundays for lunch and dinner.
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