Rome

Concierge.com's insider take:

Born in the summer of 2005, this classy newcomer at the quieter, northern end of Trastevere has already made a name for itself. The decor is relaxed neo-Baroque, with high-backed chairs, cast-iron chandeliers, and murals inspired by the heraldic shields of noble Roman families; simple wooden tables and a long line of cozy banquettes help to keep things informal. Service is casual but efficient, and chill-out background music sets the mood for the mostly young, trendy, local clientele. But what really makes Rivadestra worth a visit is the menu. There are only three or four options for each course, but dishes like bombolotti pasta with arugula pesto, scallops, and bottarga, or baked salt cod on a bed of fennel, turn out to be well-executed creative combinations that haven't lost their roots in Italian home cooking. The wine list is a little on the thin side (and a few labels were missing on our last visit), but on the upside, it's good value for your money: If you manage to spend €50 a head in here, you've really pushed the boat out.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm.