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Visitors who last came to Rome in the Dolce Vita years will be shocked by the demise of the ultracheap neighborhood trattoria. But there's good news, too: In terms of culinary competence and variety, the contemporary Roman dining scene is as good as it has ever been. Now, for every orthodox trattoria romana there is a new "mozzarella bar," or an Asian-Italian fusion restaurant, or a designer wine bar serving Roman "tapas."
For a quick snack, avoid Rome's uninspiring tramezzini (bar sandwiches, invariably made with white bread). Instead, most alimentari (grocery stores) will make up delicious panini from whatever's behind the deli counter. Or stock up on picnic provisions at an outdoor market such as Campo de' Fiori, San Cosimato, or Testaccio. Pizza is always a good fallback: In the last ten years, the doughier Neapolitan variety has made inroads, but thinner pizza romana is still the locals' first choice. Note that, with a few tourist-oriented exceptions, most pizzerias are open only in the evening. Also, few Romans turn up to dinner before 8 pm. And check that a restaurant is open before you make plans—days off and vacations are taken seriously here.
At Il Convivio, imposingly formal decor is matched by impeccable, equally formal service. The three dining rooms are always busy, with a well-heeled, elegant...more
Formerly the chef at Palazzo Sasso in the Amalfi Coast resort of Ravello, Anthony (a.k.a. Antonio) Genovese started back at first base when he opened this...more
This is one of those places that hasn't changed since Fellini was a bambino. La Campana claims to be the oldest restaurant in Rome, and you'll believe it when...more
It's a bit of a trek to get out near the end of the No. 8 tramline from Largo Argentina, but people come from all over to sample the exquisite pizza...more
Believe it or not, a German chef, Heinz Beck, is the heart and soul of what is unanimously considered to be the best restaurant in Rome (a status recently...more
This relaxed, informal trattoria not far from Piazza di Spagna is a convenient pit stop before or after a shopping spree on the boutique strip of Via Condotti....more
The owner, a former rugby player, and his slightly scruffy crew serve a three-course, fixed-price menu (currently $31 a head) that includes cookies and wine....more
Since the 1970s, this former pasta factory in the student-y eastern district of San Lorenzo has been a point of reference for the city's contemporary and...more
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