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Rome restaurants

Visitors who last came to Rome in the Dolce Vita years will be shocked by the demise of the ultracheap neighborhood trattoria. But there's good news, too: In terms of culinary competence and variety, the contemporary Roman dining scene is as good as it has ever been. Now, for every orthodox trattoria romana there is a new "mozzarella bar," or an Asian-Italian fusion restaurant, or a designer wine bar serving Roman "tapas."

For a quick snack, avoid Rome's uninspiring tramezzini (bar sandwiches, invariably made with white bread). Instead, most alimentari (grocery stores) will make up delicious panini from whatever's behind the deli counter. Or stock up on picnic provisions at an outdoor market such as Campo de' Fiori, San Cosimato, or Testaccio. Pizza is always a good fallback: In the last ten years, the doughier Neapolitan variety has made inroads, but thinner pizza romana is still the locals' first choice. Note that, with a few tourist-oriented exceptions, most pizzerias are open only in the evening. Also, few Romans turn up to dinner before 8 pm. And check that a restaurant is open before you make plans—days off and vacations are taken seriously here.

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Gelato, Rome

The last decade has seen a slew of high-end gelaterie open in Rome. The first, and still one of the best, is Il Gelato de San Crispino, set up by gelato...more

Editors' Pick
Dal Cavalier Gino, Rome

Good centro storico trattorias are hard to find, and Gino's is no exception: It's tucked away in a tiny cul-de-sac just around the corner from the Camera dei...more

Editors' Pick
Da Felice, Rome

When the inaptly named Felice ran it (felice means "happy," and he rarely was), this traditional Roman restaurant in the down-home Testaccio district was a...more

Editors' Pick
Cul de Sac, Rome

The original Roman wine bar, Cul de Sac may not look like much inside, but its great position (just around the corner from Piazza Navona), highly prized outside...more

Editors' Pick
Caffè Bernini, Rome

Hats off to this new café-restaurant, which is attempting to bring quality catering to touristy Piazza Navona—noted until now both for the beauty...more

Editors' Pick
Antico Arco, Rome

The "Old Arch" on the Gianicolo hill above Trastevere has established itself as a reference point for Roman gourmets who want to eat well without breaking the...more

Editors' Pick
'Gusto, Rome

Mod, Conran-inspired 'Gusto—with its restaurant, pizzeria, and kitchenware shop—caused a sensation when it opened in 1998, but it's looking rather...more

Editors' Pick
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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.



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