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Volpetti, Rome

47 Via Marmorata
Tel: 39 06 574 2352's insider take:

Enter this gastronomic temple at your peril. A sliver of piquant pecorino here, a mini-chunk of succulent salami there, and before you know it, you'll be opening your heart and your wallet to the charmingly cajoling salesmen behind the high, glass-fronted counter packed with every Italian deli specialty you've ever wanted to try—and quite a few that you've never even heard of. Claudio and Emilio Volpetti's goods are far from cheap but are always top-quality: There are cheeses of all ages and consistencies from up and down Italy's boot, a daunting selection of hams, and dozens of salamis, plus excellent bread, and a good though pricey selection of wines. For sit-down lunchtime self-service, check out the restaurant just round the corner at 8–10 Via Alessandro Volta, where you can sample a selection of the same goods, plus excellent pizza and salads.

Open daily 8 am to 2 pm and 5 to 8:15 pm.

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