Seville

Lay of the Land

Seville straddles the river Guadalquivir, with most of the city sitting on the east bank, and Triana and Los Remedios neighborhoods on the west. The old center (Barrio Antiguo), originally surrounded by walls dating from Roman and Moorish times, is now ringed by broad avenues. Within this area many streets have been pedestrianized or are limited to taxis and residents only. The heart of the old center is Plaza Nueva, where you'll find the Town Hall. To the north is the main shopping area, and above that the trendy Alameda, San Vicente, and Macarena areas. A short hop south from Plaza Nueva is the Giralda cathedral, and south again of that, the Alcazar Palace, the picture-postcard-quaint Barrio Santa Cruz, and Maria Luisa Park. To the west of Plaza Nueva is the Arenal, formerly the docks, and to the east, Alfalfa, chock-full of bars.

WHEN TO GO

Summers are intensely hot in Seville—during the day, you won't want to do anything but siesta. The spring and autumn months are the best times to visit.

HOW TO GET THERE

Seville's airport is six miles from the city center (San Pablo Airport; 34-954-260-915). No airlines fly directly from the States to Seville; a connection via Madrid or a number of other European cities is required. A bus run by Amarillos Tour, S.A. goes to the city center and runs every half hour on weekdays, 6:45 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., and every hour on weekends (34-902-210-317). You can also catch a taxi in front of the airport terminal.

GETTING AROUND

Seville is small enough to get around on foot, with its old center neatly enclosed by a circular ring road, and the colorful Triana neighborhood just across the river. If you want to venture further afield, you can take the bus or metro.

For short hops in the city center, buses and trams are handy. The C5 is a useful circular bus route that passes through the narrow streets, stopping at Plaza San Francisco, Plaza Alfalfa, the Macarena church, the Museo de Bellas Artes, Plaza Nueva, and the Real Maestranza bullring. Other buses leave from Puerta de Jerez (heading southward) and Plaza Ponce de Leon (north and eastward).

The metro currently has one line running east–west; it is especially popular during the busy periods of Semana Santa (March/April) and Feria (April/May). Stations useful for visitors include Parque de los Príncipes and Blas Infante to get to the Feria; Plaza de Cuba for Calle Betis and the river; Puerta de Jerez, next to Calle San Fernando, where you can catch the tram to Plaza Nueva; Prado de San Sebastián to visit the Parque Maria Luisa and Teatro Lope de Vega; and for soccer fans, Nervión, where the Seville Football Club stadium is located.

The tram (known, confusingly, as MetroCentro) covers a tiny route, just over a mile in all. It leaves from Plaza Nueva and goes down Avenida de la Constitución, past the Cathedral, stopping at the Archivo de Indias, San Fernando (Puerta Jerez), and the Prado de San Sebastián. It terminates at San Bernardo train station.

TOURIST INFO

Andalucía Tourist Office
21B Avenida de la Constitución
Tel: 34 954 221 404
Open Mon–Sat 9–7, Sun and holidays 10–2.

Tourist Office
San Pablo Airport
Arrivals Terminal
Autopisto San Pablo
Tel: 34 954 449 128

Tourist Office
Santa Justa Station
Avenida Kansas City
Tel: 34 954 537 626