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YongFoo Élite, Shanghai

200 Yongfu Lu by Hunan Lu
China 200021
Tel: 86 21 5466 2727's insider take:

A magical garden aglow with paper lanterns surrounds this grand French Concession villa, at times home to the Russian, Vietnamese, and British consulates. The interior befits the 1930s Tudor-style structure, intimate with mahogany furniture, scattered Chinese antiques, Deco furnishings, and shaded chandeliers that cast a warm glow against the copper ceiling. A sophisticated crowd—spot the many romantic couples—dine on varied if slightly underwhelming local fare, such as the spicy, slightly sweet pomfret with minced pork, sautéed water vegetables, and featherlight vegetable buns. We recommend this place for an evening drink rather than a meal. In warm weather, find one of the secret spots in the enormous garden. Reservations recommended.

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