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12 Chairs, Shanghai

Block 26F, 3rd floor
Sinan Mansions
Fuxing Road
China 200025
Tel: 86 21 3330 3920's insider take:

Prolific Greek-Australian chef/restaurateur David Laris has turned his attentions to that cherished preserve of the Shanghai restaurant, the private dining room. This 12-seat, single-table venue has upped both the design element (white leather chairs, mini chandelier lamps) and the exclusivity quotient. At lunch and dinner, guests sample an eight-course meal from a monthly-changing menu that marries Laris's proven skills in combining Mediterranean and modern Australian cooking with Asian influences; there are also optional wine pairings. The glass kitchen allows diners to watch the preparation of dishes like praline and foie gras with muscat jelly, and salmon tetaki with wilted romaine, slow-cooked egg, and X.O. sauce. Advance reservations only.—Gary Bowerman

Lunch 12:30 pm, dinner 8 pm.

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