Concierge.com's insider take:
The local trend for star chefs to dabble in a secondary, more accessible bistro is now in full swing. Fonda Gaig is the nerdy little brother of Gaig, Carles Gaig's Michelin-accoladed restaurant. His fonda (inn) is neither overtly cheap nor cheerful; its russet-red leather and blond wood decor is smart yet understated, and the walls could do with a touch of adornment. Yet the defenders of the premolecular old school have embraced Gaig's resurrection of traditional Catalan cooking and the strain of meat-heavy, simply prepared meals that their mothers used to make. Signature dishes include macaroni with chorizo, cream, and Parmesan cheese; baby octopus with artichokes; and cabbage and potato frittata served with a slice of pancetta. The ambience is booted and suited, with widely spaced tables accommodating expense-account execs, formal family gatherings, politicos, and intrepid food tourists.—Suzanne Wales
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 1:30 to 3:30 pm and 8:30 to 11 pm, Sundays 1:30 to 3:30 pm.