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Leï Mouscardins, St. Tropez

Tour du Portalet
St. Tropez
France 83990
Tel: 33 4 94 97 29 00's insider take:

Michelin recently and mysteriously snatched away one of Leï Mouscardins's two stars—and the locals aren't pleased. Granted, the too-too fabulous crowd here spends as much time looking around the loud, social dining room as actually tasting the food. But they might have a point: Skilled and imaginative, Breton chef Laurent Tarridec remains the best person cooking in St. Tropez. His brandade (whipped potato and salt cod) cooked in a mason jar remains a local classic; foie gras with figs is grande bouffe excess in the best Gallic tradition. The other dish not to miss—besides the side orders of gossip and backstabbing—is locally caught rouget (red mullet) served on a bed of spelt and dosed with musky Moroccan argan oil. Drink locally—maybe a nice Cassis or a Bellet—to avoid a ruinous tab, then lean back and join in: "Can you believe she wore that dress?"

Open daily 7 to 11 pm.

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