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Marque, Sydney

355 Crown Street
Surry Hills
Sydney
Australia
Tel: 61 2 9332 2225
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Concierge.com's insider take:

Not for the traditional, this small, eggplant-colored dining room—where tables are so close together that you can practically taste what your neighbors are eating—is the preferred destination for adventurous foodies. The reason is chef and owner Mark Best, a former electrician who apprenticed at Arpège in Paris and who now fuses classical French technique with surprising food pairings. When he succeeds, the results are exceptional (when he doesn't, you wonder what on earth he was thinking). Boudin noir with sea urchin is one unusual combination, but another particularly delicious standout is the "risotto" of local calamari and prawns—the seafood is chopped so finely that it resembles arborio rice. There's also roast wood pigeon, served with a parsnip and chocolate tart.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 6:30 to 9:30; last seating at 9 pm.

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