Tokyo

Emanating out from its geographic and spiritual center, the Imperial Palace, Tokyo is divided into distinct neighborhoods. Visitors usually spend most of their time in the central, commercial ones, such as Ginza, Shibuya, Aoyama-Omotesando, and Shinjuku. The real pleasure in Tokyo, though, is not in any specific sights but in the urban landscape itself. Don't hesitate to take a subway or commuter train out to the residential neighborhoods and explore. A one- or two-stop ride away from Shinjuku or Shibuya stations (both commuter rail terminals) on any line is worth the trip. Daikonyama, with its charming boutiques, is a favorite. Many expatriates live on the charming, hilly streets of Yoyogi-Uehara. In Shimokitazawa, the narrow lanes near the station are jammed with funky shops and eateries, and crowds of young people.

WHEN TO GO

Japan has four distinct seasons; five if you include the rainy season. Winters tend to be cold, dry, and clear, while summers are exhaustingly hot and humid. The rainy season, which falls roughly between mid-June and mid-July, can be sticky and gray. July and August are only for those who can bear soaring temperatures and junglelike humidity. Spring and autumn are good times to visit. Hanami, or cherry blossom viewing, lasts for about ten days in early April.

HOW TO GET THERE

Tokyo has two airports: Narita Airport (www.narita-airport.jp/en), about 37 miles from Tokyo, for international flights, and the more centrally located Haneda (www.tokyo-airport-bldg.co.jp/fl/english) for domestic flights.

From Narita Airport
Taxis to central Tokyo will cost at least 25,000 yen (about $215), unless you hire a fixed-fare taxi: 17,000 yen (about $150) to Ginza; 19,000 yen (about $165) to Shibuya or Shinjuku (plus tolls). There is a fixed-fare taxi stand at the arrival terminal. Orange-and-white Airport Limousine buses leave regularly and promptly, linking the airport with an extensive network of destinations in Tokyo in about 80 minutes. Tickets are 3,000 yen (about $25) and are available at the airport (81-3-3665-7220; www.limousinebus.co.jp/e). Tokyo MK runs a door-to-door minibus service: 4,000 yen (about $35) per person to Ginza; 4,500 yen (about $40) to Shinjuku and Shibuya. Return trips can be booked up to two days before departure (81-3-5547-5667; www.tokyomk.com/eng/e_skyshuttle.html). The Narita Express travels between the airport and Tokyo Station nonstop in just under an hour (www.jreast.co.jp/e). Trains leave on the hour, and every 30 minutes at peak hours. From Tokyo Station, the Narita Express goes on to other destinations in Tokyo, including Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Shinagawa. A one-way ticket to Tokyo Station costs 2,940 yen (about $25); to Shinjuku, 3,110 yen (about $27). Keisei Railway runs the Skyliner Airport Express from Narita to Keisei Ueno Station (the 51-minute trip costs 1,920 yen, or about $17). From there, you can connect with the subway. Trains leave approximately every 40 minutes (www.keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetudou/keisei_us/top.html).

GETTING AROUND

Tokyo is crisscrossed with subway, bus, and railway lines, which provide an enviably efficient public transport system.

Subway
Tokyo's subway is cheap and spotless and runs like clockwork. The 13 lines, operated by two companies, are color-coded, and station names are usually written in English and Japanese. It's confusing at first, but essential once you get the hang of it; staff are uniformly helpful. A basic ticket costs 160 yen or about $1.50 (www.tokyometro.jp/e/index.html).

Train
The most useful above-ground train for visitors is the JR Yamanote or Circle Line, which runs around the city, links Tokyo's major centers, and intersects with the subway and trains to the suburbs. Avoid rush hour. Basic tickets cost 130 yen (about $1).

Buses
The bus network is extensive, but can be difficult for the non-Japanese speaker to negotiate, since bus stop signs and maps are written in Japanese. If you do use the buses, buy either one of the prepaid passes from the subway (also good for the buses) or pay when you board. Trips usually cost a flat fare of 200 yen (about $2).

Passes
Prepaid passes are recommended to avoid queuing and working out individual fares-the price is deducted automatically at the gate. Passnet passes—1,000 yen (about $9), 3,000 yen (about $26), or 5,000 yen (about $44)—are sold at subway ticket machines and can be used on the subway and railway lines (but not the Yamanote Line). The rechargeable Suica card, which starts at 500 yen (about $4), is good for JR trains (including the Yamanote Line). The Tokyo Free Kippu is a combination pass that allows unlimited travel on all subway lines and JR trains in central Tokyo for one day. It's also valid on city-run buses. Available at subway and JR stations, it costs 1,580 yen (about $14). If you're planning to travel around the country, a Japan Rail Pass is a must (www.japanrailpass.com). Only available to tourists, it can only be bought outside of Japan. A standard-class seven-day pass for an adult costs 28,300 yen (about $245) and is good for unlimited travel on all Japan Rail (JR) trains including most shinkansen, or bullet trains. It's also valid for the Narita Express train to and from the airport (www.japanrailpass.net).

Taxis
Finding a taxi is not a problem—there are thousands of them in central Tokyo. As in New York, available taxis have their top lights on and can be hailed anywhere. Enter the taxi via the rear left-hand door, which is opened and closed automatically by the driver (don't close the door yourself—you'll damage the hydraulics). Taxis are metered and the basic fare is 660 yen (about $6). Japanese addresses are notoriously difficult to locate, so it helps to have a map in Japanese on hand.

Car Rental
You'd be a fool to rent a car in Tokyo, because public transport is so good. Besides, parking is expensive and traffic can be heavy during rush hour (you'll notice however, that really nobody honks). Save car rentals for trips away from the city. You can rent a car at Narita Airport from Nippon, Toyota, Nissan, and Japaren (www.narita-airport.jp/en/guide/service/list/svc_51.html).

Chauffeur
One way to cover the city is to hire the services of a car and driver, preferably a Century or President with net curtains and lace covers on the seats—the Japanese CEO's vehicle of choice. Try the Hotel Okura Limousine Hire Service for charming English-speaking drivers; the fare from the airport to the hotel is 43,000 yen, about $370 (81-3-3583-2424).

TOURIST INFO

Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO)
Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan Building
2-10-1 Yurakucho, 10th Floor
Chiyoda-ku (next to JR Yurakucho Station)

Visit the JNTO Tokyo Information Center for maps, brochures, and travel advice. Its excellent English-language website is packed with practical information about traveling in Japan. JNTO also operates a tourist help line (81-3-3201-3331) that travelers can call for anything from museum operating hours to bus timetables.

There are also tourist locations at the airport: Arrivals Terminal 1 (81-4-7630-3383); Arrivals Terminal 2 (81-4-7634-5877).

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