Concierge.com's insider take:
This low-rise area of Shinjuku, threatened with extinction for decades, is an atmospheric warren of bars, some only large enough for a couple of stools. There's a hint of postwar Tokyo in the dimly lit alleys, and it makes a nice contrast to the tacky glitz of nearby Kabuki-cho. The steadiest customers prefer to keep their favorite nomiya (counter bars) a secret, and some bars are only open to regulars. Stroll until you find one that looks welcoming.
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