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Eminönü, Istanbul

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Turkey's insider take:

The streets behind the New Mosque at Eminönü and the Egyptian Bazaar that stretch all the way up to the back entrance of the Grand Bazaar are a maze of authentic alleys—a modern-day vestige of the old Oriental souk society. Mostly free of tourists, these streets are where you'll find the actual Istanbullus—veiled, capped, often laden with shopping—going about their business, buying and selling everything from fruits and vegetables, spices, coffee, clothes, household utensils, mobile phones, hardware, and made-to-measure carpentry items. Look out for the 16th-century Rüstem Paşa mosque as you wander around; located on Hasıcılar Caddesi, it boasts a beautiful interior of İznik tiles and is one of the city's best-kept secrets.

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