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Osteria Le Logge, Siena

33 Via del Porrione
Italy 53100
Tel: 39 0577 48013
view web site ›'s insider take:

Though it calls itself a humble osteria, this is really more of a gourmet restaurant that likes to dress down. It's extraordinary that food this good is served within hopping distance of Piazza del Campo; curious, too, that the host, Gianni Brunelli, is a former extreme-left rabble-rouser and union organizer (check out the photo of him with Fidel Castro in the dining room). Since then he's added restaurateur, contemporary art buff (you can admire part of his collection on the walls), and Brunello di Montalcino wine producer to his list of achievements. The main dining room fuses wine and literary culture in its glass-fronted bookcases, which are packed with good bottles and good books. On the plate, fusion dishes like seared tuna with soya and wasabi alternate with more Tuscan treats—the latter more reliable, in our experience—like cinta senese pork liver served both whole and in sausage form; or the restaurant's trademark primo, malfatti all'Osteria (spinach and ricotta gnocchi served in tomato sauce). The wine list is extensive—at least if you stick to Tuscan bottles—with extremely reasonable markups.

Closed Sundays.

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