Almost every restaurant in Valencia offers some variation on paella, the city's most celebrated dish. The traditional one-pan recipe pairs short-grained rice with so-called "poor" ingredients like rabbit, chicken, and snails. (The all-seafood version, often taken by outsiders to be the most authentic paella, is actually a later development.) While the best paella is usually found near the port, or around the southerly fishing villages of El Palmar or El Saler, the city center has lately been sprouting some of Spain's most cutting-edge restaurants. The late hours observed in Spanish kitchens are taken to an extreme here: Except at a few tourist establishments, it's bad form to turn up for lunch before 2 p.m., or for dinner before 9:30.