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Ca' Sento, Valencia

17 Calle Méndez Núñez
Eastern District
Spain 46024
Tel: 34 96 330 1775's insider take:

One of Valencia's most creative restaurants is hidden behind a discreet door in a down-at-the-heels neighborhood south of Avenida del Puerto. The decor, which incorporates scorched, sawn-off tree trunks and walls embedded with jagged glass, isn't exactly restful, but it's an appropriate metaphor for chef Raúl Aleixandre's audacious cuisine. Aleixandre uses Valencian flavors and ingredients in daring ways: A single raw oyster is paired with iced apple and lime foam; a fillet of ventresca (tuna belly) is caramelized and served in an eggplant sauce. But diners who want traditional paellas can also get their fix here. The black-clad waitstaff can be a little stiff and awkward; they're at their best, paradoxically, when the place is full.

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

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