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restaurants
4149 Castello
Riva degli Schiavoni
Venice
Italy 30122
Tel: 39 041 524 0034
Concierge.com's insider take:
Since his appointment in 2005, chef Corrado Fasolato has turned around what used to be the decidedly average restaurant of the Hotel Metropole and made it the table to book for a high-end Venetian meal near St. Mark's Square. Reflecting his apprenticeship under radical Spanish super-chef Ferran Adrià, Fasolato's Michelin-starred cuisine is certainly flashy, playing games with traditional local dishes like sarde in saor (here, not sardines but anchovies, baked in bread crumbs and served with sweet and sour onions and balsamic gelato) or taking a fillet of black cod, steaming it over an infusion of straw (from the market-garden island of Sant'Erasmo), herbs, and spices and serving it with an injection of vanilla-spiked olive oil. It would all be molto, molto pretentious if it weren't so darn good; it helps, too, that the service is much warmer than one might expect given the quality of the food and the opulent red-and-gold Old Venice decor. The wine list is encyclopedic. Various tasting menus are on offer; the surprise Secrets, Mysteries, and Pleasures version—basically a culinary mystery tour led by Fasolato—is accompanied by the footnote, "Please ask before taking photos."
Open Tuesdays through Fridays 7:30 to 10:30 pm, Saturdays and Sundays 12:30 to 2:30 pm and 7:30 to 10:30 pm.
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