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Steirereck, Vienna

2a Am Heumarkt
Austria 1030
Tel: 43 1713 3168
view web site ›'s insider take:

Perfect for an after-opera dinner, this lush restaurant is all operatic flamboyance itself, from its setting in the middle of the central Stadtpark to its flotilla of rolling dinner carts dishing up liqueur, bonbons, cigars, and cheese, to the kitchen's opulent entrées that land on your table beside their own recipe cards (though it's doubtful you'll ever whip up that Breton lobster with tamarillo-balm jelly, lime-oil-glazed almonds, and spiced yellow tomato jam with black pepper). If that's one ingredient too many, you'll find the more casual downstairs eatery Meierei offers a more playful and inviting form of drama. Billed as a dairy bar and whitewashed from floor to ceiling so you feel like you're eating inside one of the milk bottles that line an entire wall, the restaurant offers a traditional Styrian beef with onion sauce and some very serious cheese platters, including one plate flaunting nine renditions of blue cheese alone. But it's Meierei's 19 gorgeous glasses of milk that earn the café its farm-fresh cred; start with the purist's full-cream milk and build, slowly, to strawberry milk, coconut milk, tonka bean milk, and the delicately perfumed geranium milk.

Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 6:30 pm to 10:30 pm.

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