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Heurigen, Vienna

Austria's insider take:

A Heuriger is an Austrian wine restaurant, usually located at a vineyard, where servers wear lederhosen and dirndls, and a buffet is stocked with salads, fresh bread, cheeses, spreads, and traditional entrées. Heuriger Wieninger, about ten miles north of the city center, presents the vintages of Fritz Wieninger, one of Vienna's best new-generation winegrowers (a cell phone-wielding, well-dressed, articulate breed); his grüner veltliners, cabernet sauvignon/merlot cuvées, chardonnays, and pinot noirs are paired with dishes such as pastry-wrapped chicken in leek sauce and pork chops stuffed with spinach and feta (78 Stammerdorferstrasse; 43-1292-4106; Heurigen in Grinzing (in the 19th district) tend to be touristy, but Heuriger Sirbu is more of a local spot with simple decor and specialty salads and cheeses (210 Kahlenbergerstrasse; 43-1320-5928). Even better for avoiding the tourist hordes are Wolff (50 Rathstrasse; 43-1440-3727) and Schreiberhaus (54 Rathstrasse; 43-1440-3844;; both are located in Neustift am Walde, on the edge of the Vienna Woods. If you can't make it out to the vineyards, try Esterházykeller, located just off the tiny Naglergasse at the end of the Graben. This enormous, multilevel cellar has rooms connected by winding tunnels (1 Haarhof; 43-1533-3482; The Gigerl—hidden in the tiny Blumenstockgasse, behind Kärtnerstrasse—is another sweet city alternative and a favorite with families (3 Rauhensteingasse; 43-1513-4431;

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