Vieques + Culebra

Until 2003, the U.S. Navy used much of Vieques as a bombing range for military exercises; although some areas, especially on the island's eastern end, are still not open to the public, they are quickly being cleaned up. Part of this process is the detonation of unexploded ordnance, which means that very occasionally explosions will be heard. Most visitors never encounter any evidence of the military presence, however; boating, fishing, and diving outfitters know which areas are off-limits, and bring guests only to parts of the island that are completely safe.

WHEN TO GO

With the islands' temperatures generally averaging between 79 and 82° F all year, when it comes to planning a trip to Vieques and Culebra, the main consideration is humidity rather than heat. While scattered tropical storms occur from as early as June, Vieques and Culebra's main "rainy" season lies between August and November (you'll find a few businesses close during this time as well). Still, rain in Vieques and Culebra is of the short-downpour variety. Travelers should, however, pay attention to late-summer hurricane warnings.

HOW TO GET THERE

There are no direct flights between the United States and Vieques or Culebra, so your best bet is to fly through mainland Puerto Rico. From San Juan, it's a 20- to 30-minute flight from either Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport or the smaller Isla Grande Airport. From the eastern city of Fajardo, either island is a 10-minute hop by air, and one-way fares to both are around $100.

Vieques Air Link offers daily flights from both San Juan airports to Vieques, as well as from St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands; it also flies on-demand to Culebra from San Juan's Isla Grande Airport (787-741-3266). Isla Nena Air Service offers daily charters from the international airport in San Juan to Vieques and Culebra and also offers short hops between Vieques and Culebra (787-863-4447). Both companies also have daily flights to Vieques and Culebra from Fajardo (also called Ceiba). Cape Air has daily flights from San Juan International to Vieques (800-352-0714).

The Puerto Rico Ports Authority runs ferries from Fajardo to Culebra and Vieques. The 45-minute journey to Vieques costs $2, while the 90-minute trip to Culebra costs $2.25. These ferries are often crowded, so get to the dock early. And take your Dramamine—the crossing can be rough (787-863-0705).

GETTING AROUND

There are plenty of taxis on Vieques (look for minivans with yellow license plates), but the best way to get around the island's winding, rugged roads is with a four-wheel-drive vehicle. This is also the only way to get to the more isolated beaches. More than half a dozen companies rent four-wheel-drive vehicles; the rates average about $40 per day. Two of the best agencies on Vieques are Island Car Rental (787-741-1666) and Martineau Car Rental (787-741-0087), both a quick taxi ride from the airport.

On Culebra, Carlos Jeep Rental has a kiosk at the airport (787-742-3514).

For all rentals, reserve your vehicle as early as possible, as companies often run out of vehicles during high season.

TOURIST INFO

The Puerto Rico Tourism Company (787-741-5000) operates a small information center in Vieques, at 449 Carlos Lebrón Street in Isabel Segunda. It's open Monday to Saturday, 8 to 4:30. On Culebra, there's an open-air information center at 250 Pedro Marquez Street, Dewey. It's open weekdays, 9 to 5.