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Concierge.com's insider take:
Whitefish, in the state's northwest corner, has a split personality. The softer side is the town's fine lodging and good food. And then there's the roughin' it angle: the beautifully severe backcountry of Glacier National Park. Devote a couple days and hit both ends of the spectrum. Start at the Garden Wall Inn, two blocks off Central Avenue on a quiet street. The two-story B&B was built by a Great Northern railroad executive as a family home and it's still white-picket-fence cute, clad in white shingles and fronted by an inviting porch. The inside has 1920s Art Deco antiques, maple floors, and flowers from the garden. Breakfast is cooked and served by one of the co-owners (who are also trained chefs): Whatever time you rise, you'll get dishes such as an egg-and-leek soufflé stuffed with smoked Montana trout. After a few days in town, it's time to head to the backcountry. Sperry Chalet is within park boundaries and only reachable by a 6.5-mile trail that ascends some 3,000 feet. This is the perfect launching point for forays into this iconic American wilderness. While its caretakers give excellent advice on trails, we recommend coming well-prepared—this is rough country. The chalet, on the west side of Gunsight Mountain, was built in 1913 of native stone and rough timber and overlooks ten-mile-long McDonald Lake. The 17 spare rooms have no heat, electricity, or running water—and the bathroom building is shared by all—but you'll get clean sheets and three simple and hearty meals a day (Sperry Chalet, Glacier National Park; 888-345-2649, office@graniteparkchalet.com; www.sperrychalet.com/menu.html).
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