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Haus Hiltl, Zurich

28 Sihlstrasse
Switzerland 8001
Tel: 41 44 227 70 00
view web site ›'s insider take:

A leafy anomaly in a meat-and-potatoes city, the vegetarian Haus Hiltl restaurant dates back to 1898, when one Ambrosium Hiltl decided rösti potatoes and Spaetzle just weren't enough. Renovated since then, the cavernous restaurant is a neo-Baroque showpiece hung with cut-glass chandeliers and crowded with mismatched chairs that run from Victorian to Bauhaus. But it's the snaking smorgasbord's global encyclopedia of vegetarian dishes that takes literal center stage. Load up as many times as you like on dishes such as chestnut soup, leek salad, apple and pepper goulash, Thai curry, sweet corn cake, barley risotto, porcini ragoût, Gorgonzola polenta, couscous Marrakech, and zucchini with saffron sauce. The mango ice cream makes for a crucial palate cleanser after all that border-hopping roughage, and a refreshing end to one of the best deals (about $44 dollars per person for a meal that lasts all day) in a very pricey town.—Raphael Kadushin

Open Mondays through Thursdays 6 am to midnight, Sundays 8 am to midnight, and Fridays and Saturdays 6 am until late.

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