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Arts + Architecture, Zurich

Switzerland's insider take:

The birthplace of Dada, the most significant art movement to have come out of Zurich, has just been reopened after 90 years: The site of the original Cabaret Voltaire, at Spiegelgasse 1, is now a café-bar and gallery. You can visit James Joyce's grave in the Fluntern cemetery, and any number of galleries and museums—including the unmissable Kunsthaus gallery (Heimplatz 1, Spanish star architect, Santiago Calatrava, a resident, is working on two new buildings in the Seefeld district to follow up on his stunning Stadelhofen Train Station and the astonishing, recently unveiled Bibliothek (library) of the Zurich University Law Faculty—an edifice that, touching ground in only eight places, seems to be floating. One of the great architectural masters of the 20th century, Le Corbusier, contributed (posthumously) his final work to the city—the Heidi Weber Pavilion, now a museum and gallery that is sadly rarely open these days. And from the sublime to the kinda silly, hundreds of five-foot teddy bears took to the streets in summer 2005, a citywide art installation called—what else?— Teddy Summer 2005 ( Whoever thinks the Swiss are po-faced, money-minded stiff-necks should board a plane immediately. The new slim and spacious light-flooded glass Dock E building at the airport (designed by Spühler and Algélil/Graham/Pfenniger/Scholl) will be the first sign that, in the case of Zurich, old perceptions couldn't be more wrong.

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